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After recommending Basic Kitsuke Books and Advanced Kitsuke Books in Japanese, here are some of the best English-language books on kimono.

1. Kimono: Fashioning Culture, by Liza Dalby

An excellent book covering kimono past and present. The author covers not only “familiar” – i.e., formal – kimono, but also work clothes, folk clothing, and the modest beauty of stripes and ikat. Illustrations throughout the book are well annotated and informative.

There are two chapters on kimono in specific eras: Heian and Genroku (1688-1704). The chapter on the Heian era covers, among other things, seasonal color combinations, with color depictions of how the layers would look. The Genroku chapter covers kosode, with commented (black and white) illustrations from pattern books of the time. These two chapters are my favorites with their wealth of information and beauty.

For those interested in wearing modern kimono, the chapter “The Structure of Kimono” includes information on several different aspects of what a kimono, obi and their accessories can mean according to how they’re worn. For instance, how the V-shape formed by the collar differs according to age. It also includes charts on kimono formality (a wonderful resource) and descriptions – accompanied by illustrations – of the different kimono and obi types.

2. Make Your Own Japanese Clothes: Patterns and Ideas for Modern Wear, by John Marshall

As the title says, this book describes how to make your own Japanese clothes, including kimono, uchikake, haori, hanten, wraparound tops, vests, slacks (not traditional hakama), obi and tabi. An excellent book for someone with previous sewing experience, especially hand sewing. There is also valuable background on Japanese hand sewing, however, the stitches are not as clearly illustrated as they could be (would probably be very difficult to understand for a beginning sewer). As for the other illustrations, arm yourself with patience and re-read the explanations several times through.

This is a great resource for authentic patterns. It also includes a section on care and storage – how to properly fold kimono and obi. I was able to successfully complete my kurotomesode thanks to this book.

3. The Book of Kimono: The Complete Guide to Style and Wear, by Norio Yamanaka

This is a good book, but only when taken in the context of the lack of books on kimono in English. Compared to the books in Japanese that I’ve recommended it most certainly falls short, and is not a “complete guide”. That said, if you want information in English, it’s a good buy.

There’s a brief history of kimono, description of kimono patterns (weaves and dyes), chapter on the haori and kimono accessories, and description of the different obi types. There are some nice photos of obi bows, but his annotations are to be taken with a grain of salt – for example, brides do not always wear the tateya musubi, in fact they most often wear the bunko musubi tied with a fukuro obi. There are instructions for wearing kimono and tying obi, but they’re confusing – this Kimono FAQ from Japan Culture Club is much clearer, and free! (Scroll down to the bottom for the instructions.)

The strong points of this particular book are its numerous color and black-and-white photos, along with the chapters on kimono care and etiquette.

4. The Techniques of Japanese Embroidery, by Shuji Tamura (The Japanese Embroidery Center)

One word: wow. This is not a book on kimono, but on one of the techniques used for them. The color photographs are breathtaking, and the first chapters on the history of and motifs used are wonderful. An extra for those kimono fans who have fallen under the charm of Japanese embroidery and would like to better appreciate its intricacies.

My Marusho hikifurisode seems to have a penchant for adventure. I originally had it sent to my parents in the US, then asked them to send it to me in France. They put it in the mail two months ago, and I just received it today! Postage was for it to be sent by air, but with a delivery time of more than seven weeks, one really wonders if it actually went by air … or by boat instead.

In any case, it arrived in fine condition, with only a few light wrinkles here and there. I was so excited that I had to try it on, of course. It was just to see what it looks like when worn, so I didn’t spend a lot of time perfecting the look. I used a short-sleeved juban rather than a furisode juban and only wore a datejime (didn’t put on an obi), but it does give a nice idea of how it looks.

Side view. (You can see a bit of my juban sleeve poking out, it’s not part of the kimono.)

Front view. As tall as I am (1m79, or just under 5’11”), this hikifurisode is nonetheless the perfect length. Hikifurisode have the option of being folded or not at the waist when worn, unlike most other kimono.

Back view. I took these three photos myself, using our camera’s self-timer, so didn’t have enough time to fix the train as I would have liked. The red strap is the kohlin belt, which is angled a little more than it should be ^_^;

I also need more practice getting the collar line right – it’s still not pulled down far enough in back, and in front it’s too high up on the sides of my neck. Muzukashii desu.

I’m very happy with my pretty hikifurisode (*^_^*)

This lesson will cover more advanced kitsuke books, which mainly focus on different obi musubi (obi knots or bows). At the moment I only have two, but these two books are so full of information that they should satisfy most anyone’s needs. See also Lesson Three: Basic kitsuke books, where four all-around kitsuke books are introduced.

Some knowledge of Japanese is highly recommended, because although the photo directions in these particular books are good, at this level the written directions can make quite a difference in your understanding of the obi musubi. I’m an intermediate beginner in Japanese, and can nonetheless work my way through using a kanji dictionary. It is a great way to increase your vocabulary.

1. Obi Musubi [best select 50]
A selection of 50 obi musubi for all kimono types and occasions. Very nice addition to your kitsuke library.

Overview
o Preface with photos and descriptions of outfits, highly informative if you read Japanese
o Diagrams rather than photos in most cases, which make the directions very clear (photos can’t show everything)
o Innovative ways to tie the double-fold (fukuro obi, formal) otaiko musubi and the Nagoya obi otaiko by yourself
o Eleven other “taiko” styles (including fukura suzume)
o How to tie a bunko musubi by yourself, wearing a furisode
o Twelve other “bunko” styles
o Eight “tateya” styles, but not including the basic tateya musubi
o Five “freestyle” obi musubi (one informal, four formal)
o Eight hanhaba obi musubi
o Two men’s obi musubi (including “samurai musubi”)
o Men’s obi musubi adapted for women
o Six ways to wear obiage (including variations)
o Three ways to tie obijime (including variations)

2. Furisode kitsuke to obi musubi hyakka – dentou to shin kankaku no furisode obi musubi 103 shu
(Furisode dressing and musubi types for study – 103 kinds of furisode obi musubi traditions and new sensations)

A veritable encyclopedia (and in fact, the two characters read as “hyakka” are the same two characters that form the first part of the word for “encyclopedia” in Japanese) on furisode. All directions are photographed, with written explanations for each step. A must-have for furisode lovers, and anyone who wants to know how maiko (Kyoto geishas in training) dress. Read the overview for more!

[Note that there is another book that looks quite similar: Teihon kitsuke to obi musubi hyakka, translation: “Authentic book on kitsuke and obi musubi types for study”. I don’t have this one yet, but they say they have 100 original “flower” musubi, 105 musubi in all, and focus on ceremonial kimono.]

Overview
o Preface with photos of different furisode (beautiful!)
o Short section on skin tone, appropriate makeup and kimono color combinations
o How to wear furisode and graduation hakama
o How a maiko puts on her makeup and kanzashi
o How a maiko wears her juban, long furisode and darari musubi [please note that this is a type of obi which is only worn by maiko, and is much longer than the normal fukuro and maru obi – it’s very difficult to find]
o Dressing in jyuunihitoe (12-layered Heian dress)
o Wedding makeup, how to wear shiromuku: the pure white wedding nagajuban, kakeshita, fukuro/maru obi and uchikake wedding set; plus how to wear a Japanese wedding wig (katsura)
o Twenty-six “taiko” variations
o Twenty-six “bunko” variations (including basic bunko musubi)
o Sixteen “tateya” variations (including basic tateya musubi)
o Thirty-four “new sensation” obi musubi (very complicated and beautiful)
o Kitsuke points (body padding, collar line, obi, etc.)
o Fourteen furisode hairstyles and four yukata hairstyles
o Nine ways to tie obijime
o Nine ways to wear obiage
o Three bridal furisode obi musubi (kotobuki tateya, meiotobana, iwai suehiro)
o Furisode “manners” (taking off zori, opening and closing doors, sitting down and standing up, bowing while seated and standing, walking up and down stairs, etc.)
o Yukata kitsuke
o Twenty-two yukata obi musubi
o How to fix problems which arise when wearing furisode (and other kimono). Such as: date eri showing too much, back han eri showing too much, ohashori fold coming out, front panel falling too much, etc.
o How to fold kimono and obi.

In this “lesson”, I’ll be covering basic kitsuke – kimono dressing – books. These cover a lot of area in good detail, and are great for beginners. As this entry on basic books is already long, I’ll post a second entry on more advanced books. In this list, “Kimono types covered” lists the different kimono for which there are specific directions in each book, likewise for “Obi musubi covered.”

This lesson will use some Japanese terms without any definition in parentheses. These are all terms you should be familiar with in order to wear kimono. A very good glossary can be found at Ichiroya: Glossary of Kimono Terms, and an excellent online Japanese dictionary is Jim Breen’s WWWJDIC. Of most relevance to this lesson is “Translate Words in Japanese Text” in his WWWJDIC: copy-paste any Japanese text (assuming you have Japanese fonts installed on your system, so they display correctly) and it will do a basic translation for you. You’ll have to make sense of it on your own, but it is very useful.

I buy all my books in Japanese from Amazon Japan, but have also heard Kinokuniya recommended. The nice thing with Amazon Japan is that if you’re already familiar with another Amazon site, the layout doesn’t change much, plus Amazon JP now has account and buying information translated in English. Use XE.com’s Currency Converter for continuously updated exchange rates – type in the amount in yen to convert it to your currency of choice.

Recommended Kitsuke Books
1. Ichida Hiromi no Kimono Lesson (Hiromi Ichida’s Kimono Lesson)
You can also find this one on eBay pretty easily, but it’s cheaper to buy it directly from Japan (even with shipping included – SAL shipping is fast and relatively inexpensive). This book has color photograph directions for wearing several types of kimono. If you speak Japanese, there’s also a chart for when to wear what type of kimono and all kinds of informative points. Directions are very clear, you don’t need to speak Japanese to follow them. Just look carefully! Highly recommended as a first kimono book – and maybe the only one you’ll ever need if you don’t plan to wear kimono often.

Kimono types covered: nagajuban, komon, tomesode, furisode, graduation hakama (for women), men’s formal oufit, yukata for women, men, and children, and shichi-go-san kimono.
Obi musubi covered: Nagoya obi taiko, fukuro obi double-fold taiko (formal), hirabunko, fukura suzume, yaguruma daiko, men’s kaku obi; for hanhaba obi, bunko and kai no kuchi, hon musubi (for men), as well as children’s obi musubi.
Also included: Preface with an overview of all kimono and obi types, accessories. Directions on how to make your own “waist widener”, as I like to call it, which is a datejime made from a thin hand towel, worn over the nagajuban. How to sew on han eri and attach date eri. Three ways to tie obijime, two ways to tie/fold obiage, how to fold all kimono and obi types for storage. All kinds of “checks” and “points” on proper kitsuke.

2. My Life Series: Kitsuke Lesson
A really wonderful book, I have to say this is where I turn when I want the simplest, most reliable directions possible. All in color photographs, the author, Mr. Shouichi Amano, shows you how to get a great kimono look while using none of the newer kitsuke contraptions. Another good beginner’s book, although it’s a bit sparser than Ms. Ichida’s.

Kimono types covered: nagajuban, tsumugi, komon, kurotomesode with double lining, furisode, graduation hakama, yukata for women (only), men’s visiting wear, men’s formal outfit, and shichi-go-san kimono.
Obi musubi covered: Fukuro Nagoya obi taiko, Nagoya obi taiko, fukuro obi double-fold taiko (formal), fukura suzume, houou (phoenix), men’s kaku obi; for hanhaba obi, kai no kuchi and bunko.
Also included: Preface with an overview of all kimono and obi types, accessories. Kitsuke points for unmarried and married women, and type of kimono. How to move about in a furisode. How to tie men’s haori cords. How to fold all kimono and obi types for storage.

3. Lesson Series: Kimono no Kitsuke – by SACHI
This book combines chic and modern style with all the basics. Original and fun, it also has directions for nine different hairstyles! Although it’s not inclusive enough to be considered a good all-around book (no info on children’s kimono, and only the very basics for men), it’s still a great extra to have around. Its real strength is the number of different obi musubi. All directions are photographed in full color, except the men’s kimono and women’s hairstyles.

Kimono types covered: nagajuban, tsumugi, komon, houmongi, kurotomesode, yukata, furisode, graduation hakama, men’s casual kimono and formal outfit.
Obi musubi covered: Nagoya obi taiko, fukuro obi double-fold taiko (casual and formal, with two versions of the formal), koiki (meaning “chic”, a taiko variation), fan taiko; for hanhaba obi, pretty ribbon, ageya chou, and bunko. Then there are two very fancy bows for married women’s kimono, and for furisode there are: hana taiko, a fancy tateya variation (whose kanji I can’t read), rose, and one called “illusion”.
Also included: Preface with an overview of all kimono and obi types, accessories. How to sew on han eri. Fancy ways to tie obiage (2) and obijime (4). How to wear a pre-made taiko musubi. Nine different hairstyles, for different hair lengths. Fixing kimono problems (out of place collar, hem, etc.). Cleaning kimono, accessories and proper storage, with directions for folding kimono and obi.

4. Lesson Series: Kitsuke to Obi Musubi (“to” means “and”)
Published by the same company as 3., this is nonetheless a more all-around book that sticks to a more reserved, proper style. While it can be good as an addition to your kitsuke library, I don’t recommend it as a first purchase, because it’s not as clear or varied as the first two. That said, it does have different musubi than the others which can make it worthwhile, depending on your tastes. All directions are photographed in full color, except men’s kimono (again – sorry guys).

Kimono types covered: nagajuban, komon, houmongi, kurotomesode, tsumugi, furisode, graduation hakama, yukata (men and women), shichi-go-san, men’s visiting wear (2 types) and formal outfit.
Obi musubi covered: fukuro Nagoya obi taiko (2 versions), fukuro obi double-fold taiko (formal, 2 versions), fukura suzume, bunko, two different bunko musubi for hanhaba obi, men’s kaku obi.
Also included: Preface with an overview of all kimono and obi types, accessories. Kitsuke points, when to wear, how to move about. Photos of different hairstyles (not photographed directions) in the back, with directions for folding and storing kimono and obi.

Today I received my shipment of the most recent bunch of kitsuke (kimono dressing) accessories I ordered, and now have enough to merit a dedicated post.

The accessories below are numbered in approximately the order they’re worn, so the numbers jump around a bit.
(Click for a larger image.)
1. Tabi – white socks, which should be put on first, before the kimono.

2. Koshihimo – mine are white and pink muslin, you can see the two sets. Koshihimo also come in silk, but so far I’m quite happy with muslin, as it’s very sturdy and “grabs” silk well. These sashes are used to tie the juban (underkimono) and kimono, but aren’t visible when finished. They can also be used as temporary sashes when folding an obi musubi.

3. Erishin – collar stiffener, put in the han eri (nagajuban collar) to better keep its shape. Can also be put in the kimono collar.

4. Datejime – two are photographed. The checkered yellow and reddish-orange one is a thick, strong silk weave, whereas the bottom pink one is lightweight polyester with a stiffener in the middle. I got the polyester one as part of a set – normally I’d rather have silk datejime, as they’re stronger and breathe much better. The silk one here is of a style I’ve never seen elsewhere, but that I like very much. Its silk cords at the ends make it easy to tie. (Perhaps it’s an older style?)

5. Kohlin belts (two again). A recent addition to kimono dressing, these elastic contraptions hold the nagajuban and kimono collars at the proper angle. With some skill, koshihimo can replace them, but it takes practice to learn how and be comfortable with it.

6. Obi ita, also called mae ita. Obi stiffeners made of fabric-covered cardboard, they’re placed in the obi to help keep its shape. The longer one is for reinforcing the front of an obi when worn, whereas the shorter one is most often used to support the back obi musubi.

7. Obi makura – literally “obi pillow”, a firm “pillow” that supports obi knots. This size is typical of the one used for otaiko musubi, the most common type of knot.

8. Another obi makura, this one is for fancy obi musubi such as tateya and fukura suzume, but can also be used to tie an otaiko.

9. Minibelt – apparently this felt-covered strip of rubber (which is twice as long as it looks here) is used to temporarily hold the folds in obi musubi.

10. Sanjyuu obi himo – literally “three-ply obi cord.” This is a wonderful belt with a middle made up of three layers of elastic, which you can see on its left. Why is it wonderful? Because with this belt, tyeing complicated obi musubi is much easier! Many fancier bows have successive layers of folds, which this belt’s elastic layers can hold together.

I didn’t start out meaning to do kitsuke “lessons”, but am liking the idea now. Most Japanese-language books call them just that – “lessons”, using the English pronunciation, written in katakana – so it’s kind of a “play on a play on words”, me being a beginner who needs her own kitsuke lessons.

Next Lesson! (there I go playing around again) will be on just that: Japanese kitsuke books. They can be hard to find for those of us with little knowledge of the Japanese language, so I’ll recommend my favorites and where you can buy them.

How not to wear a komon (informal) kimono. These are photos from when I first wore this kimono, in January. At the time I had only an obi makura (to give the back knot volume) and some koshihimo (long, two-inch-wide strips of muslin used to hold the underkimono and kimono in place), plus a homemade towel belt to widen my waist. The ideal kimono form is cylindrical, which is why I needed the waist widener. I also have just one juban (underkimono) with a red collar. Other accessories that are nice to have are silk obijime (cord), obiage (obi scarf), obi ita (obi stiffener) and kohlin belt, a contraption that’s basically two clips on a strip of elastic and which helps to keep the collar in the right V. The obijime and obiage in these photos are in fact just a polyester home decorating cord and a Western-style scarf, respectively.

So here you have it – how not to wear a komon! (Although there are a few positive points here and there, thank goodness.)

The front view is somewhat acceptable: the juban and kimono collars are at proper angles, and the part beneath the obi is okay. However… the ohashori (kimono fold beneath the obi) isn’t straight, the upper part of the kimono should be flatter, and the obiage looks terrible. It should be a consistent, straight fold, without bulges. Also, you can see my juban sleeve poking out on the left – argh!

Then there’s the back view. Very embarrassing.
1. No nape is showing, the collar is too high and almost flat against it. Number One Kitsuke Mistake! ^_^;
2. What the heck was I doing when I tied this taiko musubi? It looked all right in the mirror. And the upper back part of the kimono is desperately in need of some clean folds to deal with all that excess fabric.
3. Yes, I cheated, the proof is in the white koshihimo peeking out. Never use a polyester cord (“obijime”) to tie an obi, because it’s slippery and doesn’t keep the taiko fold from falling out. I had to cheat with the koshihimo to keep it tied. Now that I’ve got silk obijime, the problem should be solved.
At least the tare (obi end) is nice and straight.

I’ll be trying again sometime soon with a different kimono, using these photos to try and get it right by avoiding the same mistakes. I’ve also got several more accessories that should help, even though I’d like to learn how to wear kimono without having to depend on them (like the kohlin belt).